The Lowly Agat (Ginger) in Pangasinan Culture

The Lowly Agat (Ginger) in Pangasinan Culture It is a kitchen staple that we often take for granted because of its constant presence while playing second fiddle to the stars of the show in the kitchen -- the main ingredients, of course. But one realizes its significance to the local culture once we hear of Ilocanos who vehemently claim that their original pinakbet doesn't have it, and encounter Tagalogs who are put off by its presence in ginisang munggo. Its interesting occurrence in local idioms is also a telling sign. We are talking about the hidden ubiquity of the lowly agat -- or luya (Tagalog) or ginger (English). The mildly spicy rhizome with the scientific name of Zingiber officinale is practically in every home-made day-to-day dish in Bayambang. It is found in pinakbet and a seeming requirement in mongo guisado and even kinurkor a ponti (a grated unripe saba dish) or ingisdan buro (sauteed fermented fish), giving subtle warmth, flavor, and aroma to those dishes. It is also deemed de rigeuer not just in certain dishes like pising ya inangel (na Pangasinan version of inabraw or dinengdeng), but most especially in malangsi (freshwater fish) dishes additionally as pampaekal na langsi (pantanggal ng lansa) apart from the heat and the flavor it imparts. Sometimes, it is even used to flavor suman (rice cake). Some locals have taken to actually swallowing it minced in adapted dishes, such as dinakdakan, sisig, and arroz caldo.

It is, of course, a must in dishes like tinola as basic spice, roughly smashed to a few pieces using a pestle. Agat is also used to make a decoction for salabat, and made into herbal medicine for cough and cold, stomachache, and similar afflictions. What makes agat even more significant is its presence in Pangasinan idioms. Lupa'y agat (ginger-faced) means pangit or ugly, aptly liking the offending face to the admittedly non-pretty appearance of the cheap common root crop. In the next case, the connection or analogy is not as clear, but maagat (puno ng luya; full of ginger) means malabir, madaldal, or talkative. Napantanema'y agat (can be planted with ginger) is a hyperbole used to refer to sobrang duming damit or clothing that is too soiled or dirty -- to comedic effect. Salin singa agat or inmagat ya impansali (ginger-looking toes or feet) is used to describe gnarled or knobbly toes or feet. Another informant says singa agat (parang luya; like ginger) refers to webbed feet with deformed toes. Equally humorous is the expression singa napantanema'y agat so salim (parang pwedeng pagtaniman ng luya ang paa mo; looks like one can plant ginger in your feet) means you have such dirty feet. Manwhile, agto nabitla'y agat (can’t pronounce 'ginger'; di masambit ang 'luya') means, Agto nibaga so panangaro to'd kakarawen to ed masyadon inkabaing to. (Di mabigkas ang nais sabihin sa minamahal dahil sa sobrang pagiging torpe o mahiyain.) In English: When a man is courting a woman, he can’t express his love to a girl because he is extremely shy. Similarly, agto nagatgat so agat (can't chew ginger) means makapoy so ulo to; mahina ang ulo; or unintelligent or dumb. Example: "Si Pedro, agto nagatgat so agat." ("Pedro can't chew ginger.") These expressions indicate long-time establishment of the spice in the local culture that it has immigrated from culinary practices to other aspects of life. The secondary but steady component of the locally preferred flavor profile has seeped most especially into the local vocabulary, further enriching an already nuanced language.

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